The Black Swan Hotel sits at the head of the market place in Helmsley; a pretty North Yorkshire town which still has bustling, weekly markets. It is comprised of three houses: a black and white Tudor house, a Georgian house and an Elizabethan house. The latter stands on the site where an inn is believed to have been situated for many centuries. In 1838, The Helmsley Highflyer stagecoach called three times a week on a route which linked Leeds and York with Helmsley.
Inside, the styles blend into one delightfully welcoming hotel, full of warmth, charm and character. There are many original features, including several open fires but there is also a contemporary feel. The hotel has a peaceful air and this ensures guests feel immediately relaxed. Staff are attentive and friendly. The décor is stylish but not too intimidating and you don’t feel you need to speak only in hushed tones (as you might at some country house hotels). This is the sort of hotel where you’ll quickly feel at home and to which you will want to return time and again, which is exactly what we have done.
Our room was on the first floor, overlooking the beautiful walled garden and gazebo. At the risk of sounding like an estate agent, I’d describe the room as ‘spacious, light and airy’. The Superking-sized bed was a particular asset and so very comfortable too.
The reason for this most recent visit was to experience for ourselves the latest Tasting Menu from their celebrated Head Chef, Patrick Bardoulet. As foodies, we were excited because before joining the team at the Black Swan, Patrick held prestigious roles in Michelin-starred restaurants and five star hotels across the globe and he gained and maintained 3AA Rosette status at two Scottish hotels for eight years before opting to work for private clients in the Middle East; we wanted to see what he could do.
And so to afternoon tea. On warm, sunny days tea may be served in the garden pretty walled garden but on cooler days, it’s served in the lounge, the bar or the tea room. We enjoyed ours in the lounge, whilst relaxing on a squishy sofa and drinking tea from the hotel’s own Cygnet tea range.
We were served a range of sandwiches (egg mayonnaise and cress; avocado, brie and sun blush tomato; ham, cream cheese and chive; and my particular favourite, smoked salmon and cucumber) before moving our way up the cake stand to light, crumbly fruit scones with strawberry conserve and clotted cream followed by perfect rose and strawberry macarons, white and dark chocolate layer cake, passion fruit and lemon posset and Mini Banoffee Tarts.
Thankfully, ‘afternoon tea’ is available at lunch time otherwise, we would never have had time to work up an appetite for our six course tasting menu that evening and, after all, that was the main attraction. We took the delicious and impeccably styled afternoon tea as a positive indication of things to come and decided to go for a long walk through the Duncome Park Estate to burn off a few calories.
We then enjoyed a potter round the shops calling in at our favourites, Libby Butler Jewellers, Carters Country wear, Hunters deli, Helmsley Wines and Browns department store.
We enjoyed some pre-dinner drinks in the hotel bar with some friends who live in Helmsley and then we excused ourselves to dress for dinner. As this was a special treat, we decided to push the boat out and also have the wine pairings to accompany the tasting menu and this proved to be an excellent idea as the pairings really did complement the flavours of each dish.
After our ‘Amuse Bouche’, we were served our starter: a combination of beetroot, clementine, grapefruit, smoked goat’s cheese curd, soft herbs and charcoal – yes, you did read that correctly: charcoal. With the first taste, the charcoal seemed a too intense, almost overpowering the other flavours with a sort of ‘barbecue’ flavour but, as you became more accustomed to it, the taste sensation developed. The after-taste was really intriguing too. The dish was perfectly accompanied by a glass of Pinot Blanc, Dopff Au Moulin, Alsace, France, 2011.
North Sea Crab five ways was next; beautiful, artistic presentation and delicate flavours for each of the ‘ways’ and this was served with a glass of Chardonnay Peter Lehman, Eden Valley, Australia, 2012.
Next on the menu was Ham Hock and Salt Cured Foie Gras but as I’m not a fan of Foie Gras (or its means of production), I asked if mine could be replaced with hand-dived scallops (which I’d seen on the main menu). These were delicious and they still went well with the La Fleur D’or, Sauternes 2011.
Primitivo, Menduria Reserva accompanied the main course, which was a succulent Gressingham Duck breast with sweet potato, beetroot, quince, peanut brioche and plum sauce.
And then after a requested pause, it was time for us to meet the most amazing cheese trolley, which boasted a fine selection of English and European Cheeses and delicious quince jelly.
I would have happily have stopped there (as I quite like to end a fine meal with cheese) but there was one more course to go and that was a chocolate tart with banana, lime, vanilla-lime sorbet and a glass of Barbados Rum (Plantation XO). I managed a couple of mouthfuls of the dessert and a sip of the rum before calling it a night. I’d brought my appetite but I’d been defeated – and yet I was feeling victorious, for what a fine way to spend an evening – being wined and dined in such lovely surroundings, with fine food and friendly staff.
For any foodies visiting the area, I would highly recommend dining at the Black Swan and it’s open to non-residents so, even if you’re not booked in at the hotel itself, you can still enjoy the food.
Further information
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