Every summer, the world’s most popular operas are performed in the spectacular surroundings of the Verona Arena. Nestled in the heart of this charming Italian city, the arena becomes a magical place, where world-class operatic performances combine with the ancient Roman architecture to create an unforgettable atmosphere. The Verona Opera Festival is an annual event that draws thousands of visitors from all corners of the globe, eager to experience the passion and drama of opera in this historic venue.
My first experience of the Verona Opera was twenty years ago, and it remains one of my fondest memories. That summer, I had the pleasure of attending the opera the day after my wedding—though that’s a whole other story! My wife and I, fresh from the excitement of our big day, were ready to indulge in something truly special. The Verona Arena didn’t disappoint. We had treated ourselves to the more expensive Silver Stalls seating, and it was worth every penny. The view of the stage was flawless, and as we sat there beneath the moonlit sky, it felt as though everything had aligned perfectly for us. There’s something about watching an opera in the open air, with the stars above and the warm summer breeze around you, that makes the experience even more captivating. The music, the staging, the sheer emotion—it all seemed amplified by the setting.
Fast forward two decades, and I found myself back at the Verona Arena, but this time, I wasn’t just with my wife. We were now a family of five, bringing along our three teenagers and our seven-year-old to share in this incredible experience. While our hearts were eager to recreate that same magical evening we’d had all those years ago, our budget wasn’t quite as enthusiastic! Instead of the luxurious Silver Stalls, we opted for the Stone Step Seating—more affordable and, as we told ourselves, perhaps more in line with the authentic Roman experience. After all, the Verona Arena had been used as a performance venue since ancient times, and sitting on the stone steps would allow us to connect with history in a new way.
But, as anyone who’s sat on stone for hours at a time will tell you, it can be less than comfortable. To prepare, we made sure to buy cushions from a vendor outside the arena. These cushions, while better than nothing, weren’t exactly plush. The mass-produced variety they sell around the stadium don’t offer the greatest support, especially not for a three-hour opera performance. In hindsight, investing in something a bit more substantial would have been a wise decision. Still, we were determined to make the best of it, and a little discomfort wasn’t going to ruin our night.
As the opera began, any thoughts of uncomfortable seating quickly faded into the background. We had come to see Carmen, and the performance was absolutely spectacular. From the very first note, the cast and orchestra had the audience spellbound. Even our seven-year-old, who we had worried might get restless, was completely captivated. Throughout the entire performance, he sat wide-eyed, taking in the music, the drama, the spectacle of it all. By the time the final curtain fell, he was humming the melodies as we made our way out of the arena and back to our accommodation. It was one of those rare moments when you realize that something you love has managed to spark joy in someone else—especially a child—and it made the experience all the more special for us as a family.
The applause at the end of the opera was thunderous and joyous. The crowd was clearly moved by the performance, and some seemed particularly enthusiastic—so much so that my wife and I joked that there might be a claque in the audience. For those unfamiliar with the term, a claque is a group of people paid to applaud during a performance, a practice that has its roots in 19th-century French opera. Whether or not these particularly exuberant audience members were part of a claque, their enthusiasm was infectious, and it added to the celebratory mood of the evening.
Once the opera ended, the crowd dispersed into the warm Verona night. Many headed to the nearby restaurants and cafes that surround the Arena square, eager to discuss the performance over a glass of wine or a late-night meal. Verona, with its cobblestone streets and romantic ambiance, is the perfect place for a post-opera dinner. There are plenty of dining options in the area, but if you plan on eating near the Arena, reservations are highly recommended. With so many people pouring out of the arena at the same time, the restaurants fill up quickly.
As we strolled back through the square, the atmosphere was electric. Groups of opera-goers were humming arias and chatting excitedly about the performance, while others simply soaked in the beauty of the night. Above us, the sky was a perfect Van Gogh-esque swirl of deep blues and twinkling stars, adding to the magical feel of the evening. It’s easy to see why people fall in love with Verona—it’s a city that feels like it was made for nights like this.
If you’re thinking about visiting Verona for the summer opera season, I can’t recommend it enough. It’s one of those experiences that stays with you long after the final note has been sung. And while ticket prices can vary depending on where you choose to sit, they are generally quite reasonable. The Stone Step Seating, in particular, is a great option for those on a budget. Just remember to bring or purchase a cushion—you’ll be thankful for it after a few hours!
The Verona Opera Festival is a celebration of music, art, and history. Whether you’re an opera aficionado or someone who’s new to the genre, there’s something incredibly special about seeing a performance in such a unique setting. It’s a reminder of the enduring power of music to bring people together, to move them, and to create moments of beauty that linger in the heart and mind long after the final applause has died down. For me, the memories of those nights in Verona—first with my wife, and later with my family—are among the most cherished I have. And who knows? Maybe one day, we’ll return again, this time with an even larger group, to share in the magic of the Verona Opera once more.
